That PhD Life: Old Nanjing

Urban redevelopment in China is complicated. I cannot pretend to understand even a fraction of China's urbanization phenomenon, let alone urban planning design or the politics that surround "saving face" and corrupt officials. The only thing I can really speak to at this time is the complexities surrounding the perspectives of the people. Most Chinese people I have talked to recognize the view of the urban preservationist or archeologist: they agree that China needs to better preserve aspects of its tangible (有形的) cultural heritage. "You should go to Suzhou or Huizhou or Hangzhou and do research there! The old neighborhoods there are so beautiful and very well preserved. Those are important areas of Chinese cultural heritage," they tell me. "Nanjing has not done a very good job of preserving the old cities here. There isn't anything left! Maybe you should study the Ming Tombs instead. That would be a good thing to study."

The concept of studying intangible (无形的) cultural heritage is a somewhat more foreign concept to them. When I explain that I'm studying the Nanjing dialect, specialty foods, and the neighborhood, lifestyle, and culture of Old Nanjing, they insist that Suzhou would be a much better field site. But for me, Suzhou reeks of everything fake, and is swarming with tourists and peddlers. I guess the fact that I'm studying local Nanjing culture and social behavior sounds pretty boring, but for me it's quite fascinating. My ethnographic research, in my opinion, is also quite urgent, as the unique sense of a local Nanjing identity is quickly fading and Old Nanjing will probably literally disappear in the next few years. In fact, after I arrived in Nanjing but before I actually started my research, several Chinese people told me that Old Nanjing had already been demolished. I thought I was going to have to change my field site or research topic, and I can't tell you how relieved I was when I discovered that a portion of the neighborhood is still standing.

The point of view of the people who actually live in these so-called "old cities" (旧城), or neighborhoods, communities, and alleys that have not been demolished yet (还没被拆掉的社区、地区、街区等), however, is quite different. They are ashamed of their houses and long for the day when they can move into an apartment. These neighborhoods, such as my field site, are the slums (贫民窟) of Chinese cities. Residents themselves openly admit this. When they see me taking pictures, they yell out, "Why are you taking pictures of this slum?"

I asked one middle-aged man, "Did you grow up here?" He replied, "Yes, I was born and raised in this slum." Most, but not all, of the residents are extremely poor and live in dilapidated houses—after all, who is going to take care of a house that will definitely be torn down sometime in the next 5 years?

I met one resident that was rich enough to refurbish the inside, and that house was truly comfortable. I also see expensive cars (Lexus, BMW) parked outside some of these houses, but I'm not sure of the relation of the owners of the cars to the residents. Most of the residents live in impoverished conditions. There is electricity, but usually no indoor plumbing (read: no bathroom). The residents must use the public toilet.

I have to admit, that my Mom's role as a kitchen designer has peaked my interest in examining the kitchen designs. One cool thing about Old Nanjing is that the kitchens are usually outside of the home, where the residents plug in a hot plate next to an outdoor spicket in the alley that serves as a sink. It is especially fun to visit Old Nanjing during lunchtime, when the flavorful aromas of deliciousness and lunchtime fill the alleys. You can imagine, however, how inconvenient this would be to cook.

I love walking down the twisting alleys of Old Nanjing. When I walk into the neighborhood, I literally feel like I'm entering another world. I get lost in the tiny alleys that were built before automobiles, and am entranced by the two-story houses, built in ancient times. And the people. The people are the friendliest people you will ever meet in your entire life. The first time I went, I was the object of curiosity. They asked me a million questions, and I answered each one, patiently telling them my height, weight, parent's income, the amount of my scholarship (might have fibbed for that one, as we were instructed to do so), sister's job, and my role at Nanjing University.

They don't understand why I would want to do research in Old Nanjing, either. "You should study a pretty part of Nanjing!" they insist. There is one aspect of my research that has not met any resistance: I am learning the local dialect, and the residents are so excited about this. I am slowly learning how to understand most of what is said, but I can only say a few phrases so far. I've already had no less than 5 people offer to tutor me (usually in exchange for an English lesson).

"This is such an ugly neighborhood," they say. "You must think this is so ugly compared to what you will find in America!" I tell them that their houses are beautiful, but they just laugh. The second time I went, they called out to me as I walked past, "You're back!" and invited me to sit and eat with them. The third time, I sat and played mahjong with my favorite old woman (老太太). Each time I visit, I get to see more of their homes and eat more of their food (that is the best part!). One time I brought fruit as a present and was scolded harshly. "You're a student! What are you doing buying things for us! You need to save your money! Don't ever buy us anything ever again! Unless you get a job in China. Then you can bring us as many presents as you want!"

If it's possible to fall in love with a country, I'm pretty sure I've fallen in love with China. Or at least with Old Nanjing.

Makeshift kitchen outside a shop. The owner cooks lunch here like this every day.

Pure-bred German Shepherd. I am unsure of why some of the residents here have pure-bred dogs. My guess is for status and breeding. Dogs are expensive, one pit-bull owner said it cost him $2,000 RMB

Old houses

What's a Lexus doing here?

Kitchen

Cooking lunch!

The infamous "chai" character, which means "to demolish". Relatively well-known, as the government will paint this character on houses before residents have moved out. This house has already been abandoned and there is a big garbage dump behind it.